MOROCCO: Rabat – Enough Already – Greece Me Up!
I find myself in Rabat in another Riad in yet another Medina. Mercifully this one is relatively non-toxic although I have encountered a few altercations between some testosterone poisoned, local male youth involving the throwing of large stones, chasing each other about, and beating each other up. The people of Islamic cultures in this part of the world seem to enjoy hurling big rocks at one another in a variety of settings and occasions. Many of these situations seem to be condoned by the primary text of the religion of peace. For a people who practice this so called religion of peace, there seems to be an awful lot of shouting going on, as well.
Even the call to prayer involves a lot of high volume wailing that sounds more like the final stages of torture rather than an entreaty to a higher power. I’m sorry, but every time I hear someone yelling “Allahu Akbar”, I immediately look for something solid to dive behind.
Many of the folks here are welcoming and eager to please, but too many are looking to get their hands in your pocket to let your guard down for a second. In fact, overall there is far too much that is objectionable here to tip the scales in favor of Morocco. I can’t wait to get on the plane to Greece, and liberate myself from this noisy, backward, dusty, ethically challenged country.
Again, I’m not so eager to explore the city of Rabat even though it was granted Unesco World Heritage status in 2012. I’ve got a few spots on my list, but there is a considerable lack of enthusiasm that I have yet to experience in over two years on the road. There is also supposedly a good modern art museum here in town. Yawn…
MY STREET – There’s a dentist with whom I doubt I’ll risk a teeth cleaning. I also don’t think he sees much business with the locals, even for the pulling of teeth since they seem to do a pretty good job of knocking out each others’ for free on a regular basis.
KASBAH DES OUDAIAS – is a kasbah that is located at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River opposite Sale. It was built in the 12th. century during the reign of the Almohad Caliphate(AD 1121-1269). Aside from the reconstruction of the kasbah, the Almohads were responsible for turning the Chellah into a royal necropolis which you will be visiting after a visit to the Mohamed IV Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art.
Peaceful gardens insulate against the throngs of pawing humanity that await back in the Medina.
FLOWERS DON’T THROW STONES OR BADGER YOU FOR MONEY
LOCALS LOVE IT HERE, TOO
A LITTLE REMINDER THAT GREECE IS MY NEXT STOP
MAYBE IF I CLOSE MY EYES, TAP THE HEELS OF MY GREY ECCO SHOES TOGETHER…
…I’LL FIND MYSELF IN MYKONOS OR SANTORINI
SPACE INVADER – Well, no such luck, but I did find this is a piece of street art by the famous street artist, Space Invader, who was brought to peoples’ attention on Banksy’s movie “Exit Through the Gift Shop”. I love how the classic Space Invader creature is paired with a woman of Islamic origins above a local street sign using mosaics. How wonderfully unexpected.
Another shameful waste of oceanfront property for the sake of people who can’t enjoy it, and if they’re in heaven what do they need with an ocean view anyway? Also if Allah is so Akbar, how come he doesn’t fix everyones’ teeth and infirmities and rescue them from poverty?
MEDINA WALL
MEDINA MAIN STREET MASSACRE! – The whole place was torn up making it an even more repellant, filthy, dirty experience.
AND THE REST OF THE STREET LOOKS LIKE A YARD SALE THREW UP ALL OVER THE PLACE
AESTHETIC ENTRIES – Saving Grace of the Medina – Love It
MEDINA ESCAPE HATCH – At Night
RAMADAN – I was fortunate to find a crépe to eat up near that tower. Seriously, what kind of religion avoids food on a holiday? Doesn’t sound very festive to me. At least the women catch a break for a change and are freed up from slaving in the kitchen.
There were hundreds of these machine-gun wielding soldiers all over the city today.
MOHAMED VI MUSEUM OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART
Free Admission Today! – Yes, I finally caught a break.
Othmane DILAMI – African Tribute – 2015
KOUKA EXHIBITION
KOUKA – Banner – 2016
KOUKA – Babinga – 2015
KOUKA
KOUKA – The Human Family – 2015
KOUKA – Freedom – 2017
KOUKA
PERMANENT COLLECTION
ABOUDIA – 2014
Nike OKUNDAYE – 2009
Jonathon Mavua LESSOR -2013
Jonathon Mavua LESSOR – 2013
Bisi FABUNMI – 1980
Rom ISICHEI – 2015
Abdellah EL ATRACH – No Title – 1972
Abbès SALADI – No Title – 1987
DETAIL – Unfortunately the piece was behind glass so I couldn’t get a quality image, but I did want to try and capture some of the nice details. I plan to look up this artist’s work.
Tibari KANTOUR – Bambara – 1999
Abdellarim OUAZZANI – No Title – 1982
Mustapha HAFID – Joy – 1975
Hassan SLAOUI – No Title – 1979
PICASSO EXHIBITION
Unfortunately they prohibited photography, but as usual, I managed to come away with something important. It is an experimental study for the upcoming masterpiece “Les Demoiselles D’Avignon”. How can I complain, though? The whole visit was free of charge.
Pablo PICASSO – Woman With Joined Hands – 1907
NÉCROPOLIS DU CHELLAH
NÉCROPOLIS DU CHELLAH
SOMETHING SPECIAL AWAITS THAT I HAD COMPLETELY FORGOTTEN ABOUT
A SPECIAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE THAT IS UNDER SERIOUS RESTORATIONThis is a special archaeological that is under serious restoration.
WHAT IN GOD’S NAME IS THAT ON TOP OF THE TOWER?
Remember that bird you were told delivered babies when you were young. If you believed that one, I’ve got another one for you about a guy who flew to heaven on a winged horse.
Yes, people, this archaeological site is absolutely overrun by storks who have come to have their own babies and not deliver yours. It happens once a year so fortune has shined upon me once again, and delivered an utterly magical experience all for the underwhelming price of a dollar. I had never seen a single stork much less nesting ones in such quantity. Add to that the wonderful setting, and you just can’t put a price on it.
WELCOME TO THE NURSERY
A PROUD PAPA STANDS PATIENTLY IN THE WAITING ROOM
MEET THE NECROTICS – Who cares, let’s get back to the storks!
WAIT FOR IT
THE WHOLE FAMILY
EVERYWHERE YOU GO, JUST LOOK UP…
…AND YOU’VE GOT MORE STORKS
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Can you imagine if every historical monument came with a wildlife experience?
I have to hand it to them. They have made a good deal of progress in the renovation of these ruins. It looks a damn sight better than my neighborhood, and the storks are far more well behaved than the occupants as well.
This was the high point of my trip to Morocco. Funny thing is that the storks don’t even come from here.
You can even see trees sticking up in the distance with many nests on them as well. What a scene. It really made the trip here worthwhile. It’s definitely something you will never forget so if you are planning to come to Morocco, make sure and visit Rabat during May. That way if you’re turned off by a lot of other stuff along the way, you can take away a memory to wash the rest clean.
MAUSOLEUM OF MOHAMMAD V
THE MAUSOLEUM – Unfortunately it was closed today so I was unable to linger at close proximity to the desiccated corpse of Mohammad V.
ONE LAST BEAUTIFUL MOROCCAN DOOR – I’ll try not to let it hit me my way out.
DOOR DETAIL
SOME REFRESHING STREET ART
4 Comments
Karen Devers
May 28, 2017Well, you seen quite a bit of the country so you don’t need to ever go back, that must be a comfort.
Maybe they throw stones and shout so much because they are hungry. I could never embrace a religion that celebrated holidays with a lack of food. That would totally make me cranky!
All the dust and dirt must be hard to live in. Did you begin to feel like you were drying up? Fran said that when they were in the desert she didn’t feel like she could drink enough water, it was so dry and hot.
Greece will be a welcome relief!
The Travel Zealot
May 29, 2017Believe me Karen,
They were hangry long before Ramadan started. These poor, underemployed, sexually repressed, loud, amped-up dudes have no outlets but to oppress women and beat up each other. I have never seen so many injured guys with missing teeth. It know it’s not all from tooth decay. I see large quantities of men with a foot turned sideways or just limping about. They aren’t birth defects, but untreated inflicted injuries.
I don’t know what the deal is here, but I don’t like it. I’ll certainly be glad to leave this barbaric place. I’m sure Saudi Arabia is much worse, and is definitely on my garbage can list. I think it’s written into their law that they can execute me for not believing in God. In fact most of the Middle East is just a hive of Bronze Age barbarity. Our country wouldn’t give them a minute of its time were it not for the oil. I’m certainly going to avoid most of the area. I want to see Petra in Jordan, and I’d like to visit Beirut which used to be referred to as the Paris of the Middle East.
For now I’ve got my mouth watering for the Parthenon in Athens.
Jason
June 10, 2017Storks be with you.
The Travel Zealot
June 11, 2017Man, if I’d have started with the storks I would have been much better off, but bear in mind the storks aren’t even from Morocco. I feel vindicated though. I met a nice couple from Northern England on the Santorini volcano cruise who are fellow Morocco haters. They even got the Mos Eisley reference, and concur that Marrakech is an unparalleled “hive of scum and villainy”. I love calling it that and take every possible opportunity to do so.