JORDAN: Wadi Rum – “Lawrence of Arabia” filmed here in 1961.

My 6:20am departure from Petra went smoothly in an otherwise crowded minibus. It was worth the tight squeeze for the $10 trip to Wadi Rum where we would be met by our respective hosts. Khaled, a fellow who could have passed for a Jordanian prince, took me to his house to discuss the details of my visit and plan my tour. In the middle of the proceedings his adorable little, toddler daughter peeked around the door, giving me a glimpse inside day to day life in a Bedouin village.

Next my luggage was loaded by Adel onto an old Toyota truck in which I would be delivered to the Wadi Rum Bedouin Way Camp. It has the singular honor of being the farthest outpost in Wadi Rum. No other camps can be seen from their location.

WADI RUM VISITOR CENTER – STOPPING TO PAY THE ENTRY FEE

It’s a hazy day as we begin our 10 kilometer drive to the camp.

Wadi Rum, also known as ‘The Valley of the Moon,’ is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite here in southern Jordan. It is also the largest Wadi in the country.

Hazy or not, Wadi Rum is something to behold.

My air conditioned tent. For A/C just open the window and door at the same time.

My bed for two nights. Given the hazy weather, I’ll take the opportunity to catch up on some sleep after lunch.

 

My Backyard

Monochromatic Hazy Sunset

Dinner is buried out back so the lads are busy here unearthing it.

 

The upper tier is for the meat which is closer to the heat. Lower tier is for the vegetables.

Adel gets a bite to eat after the guests have had their way with the buffet.

MY FRENCH NEIGHBORS

ZARB!

 

 

“SEVEN PILLARS OF WISDOM” rock formation

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Wadi Rum has been used as a background setting in a number of noteworthy films. Filmmakers are particularly drawn to it for science fiction films set on Mars, but Wadi Rum will always be remembered as the backdrop of one of the grandest epics of the twentieth century.

Lawrence of Arabia was shot here in 1961, and was not only beautifully crafted, acted, and directed, but even the Bedouin of today have an appreciation of their portrayal in the film. They are gratified by the fact that Lawrence had to learn how to ride a camel, and didn’t just come readymade for the task.

Here are a few other films that featured Wadi Rum over the years.

• Lawrence of Arabia – David Lean filmed much of this 1962 film on location in Wadi Rum.

• Red Planet  – Wadi Rum was used as the surface of Mars in this 2000 film.

• Prometheus – scenes for the Alien Planet

• The Last Days on Mars – filming for exterior shots representing the surface of the red planet for this film.

• The Martian – filming for the Ridley Scott film began in March 2015, for shots that stood in for the surface of Mars

• Rogue One: A Star Wars Story – the area was used for scenes set on Jedha.

I’m pretty sure that formation is in Lawrence.

 

Looking down from a dune that I climbed. The tented area below had some geologic products for sale. I picked up a couple that were called desert flowers, and also put some of the classic red sand in a container back at campsite.

These panoramic shots always remind me of Lawrence since it was shot in Panovision.

Standing on a small, natural bridge.

 

 

 

Desert bandit awaits a tourist group to raid.

 

Entry to Khaz’ali Canyon that features ancient graffiti and drawings.

Khaz’ali Canyon

THAMUDIC INSCRIPTIONS

I passed on climbing the rope, and further injuring my shoulder which would have ruined any attempts at scuba diving in Aqaba.

Ancient Petroglyphs

Assorted Animals

 

 

 

 

JABAL UMM FRUTH BRIDGE

 

 

CLIMBING UP

ONE LAST CHALLENGE

STANDING ON TOP OF THE BRIDGE

ELI – MY ROOMATE FROM JERUSALEM – HE LIVES IN JORDAN AND IS A FRENCH GUIDE FOR A LOCAL TOUR COMPANY

 

 

 

 

ONE LAST DUNE

 

 

 

ADEL – My driver for the day.

 

GRAZING CAMELS

YOUNG ONES

 

 

CHICKEN ROCK

CHICKEN ROCK & MY RIDE

 

MY FRONT YARD

WADI RUM BEDOUIN WAY CAMP – Our campsite is so much more attractive under blue skies.

Each tent has beds, a light, and an electrical outlet. There is no Wifi or phone service in this remotest of locations.

A/C IS ON

VIEW FROM THE DINING AREA

Views in Every Direction

WADI RUM SUNSET

UNEARTHING ANOTHER BATCH OF ZARB

ZARB

 

LEAVING WADI RUM

 

Lawrence’s Spring – Named for Lawrence of Arabia who is said to have washed here.

This camels thick coat protects them from the sun, and he has wide soft feet that enable him to walk on the hot sand for a long time. When food and water are available, he can eat and drink large amounts and store it as fat in his hump. These animals have clearly evolved well for their lives in the desert.

KHALED – MY GRACIOUS HOST

Camels also have bushy eyebrows that don’t allow sand to get into their eyes during a sandstorm. They also have naturally adapted temperature regulation and can change their body temperature by six degrees Celsius in either direction.

VALLEY WHERE “LAWRENCE OF ARABIA” WAS SHOT UTILIZING HUNDREDS OF TENTS – Local Bedouins lent hundreds of tents to the production company, and slept in caves during the shooting of that famous scene.

THE TOWN OF WADI RUM – Entry and exit point for the Wadi Rum desert.

OFF TO AQABA!