AUSTRIA: Vienna – A Magnificent City
The trip to Vienna began in a mad dash that had me catching my bus by one minute. This happened because of deceptive markings at the bus stop across the street. How ironic it would have been to miss a bus for which I was thirty minutes early. Once aboard, I caught my breath, watched a movie, and took a nap.
Upon arrival in Vienna, the trip on the metro proved short and easy. My hunger had gotten the better of me, and I headed to one of the few open restaurants near my hostel. A glimpse at a few buildings reminded me of the beauty of the city.
CAFE SAVOY – FIRST STOP
CAFE SAVOY – This 1897 cafe, young by Vienna standards, was an excellent way to initiate relations with this city. My wiener schnitzel was a work of art and the apple strudel with cream sauce was delightful.
WOMBATS – THE CITY HOSTEL – THE NASCHMARKT
AN ACTUAL WOMBAT – CLEANER AND BETTER BEHAVED THAN SOME OF THE ANIMALS WHO STAY HERE
Wombats is a large hostel, and like cities, I like my hostels small to medium. Large hostels present a lot of challenges. Aside from the crowds and the noise, this particular hostel renders it impossible to find a quiet space. Because of its bloated size, people tend to take cover in its enormity. As a result, the residents tend to steal food and make noise with impunity.
NASCHMARKT – Clothing, gifts, souvenirs, foods, fruits and vegetables, and countless restaurants comprise this kilometer long 100-foot wide pedestrian zone flanked by two boulevards.
These impressive, beautifully restored structures look out onto the Naschmarkt.
However, these are just a drop in the bucket compared to the grandeur that comprises Vienna at large.
NASCHMARKT – Fresh produce keeps the hostel-dwelling backpacker healthy.
LOCAL STREET ART
ON THE WAY TO THE MUSEUMSQUARTIER
MuseumsQuartier
LEOPOLD MUSEUM
GUSTAV KLIMT
Gustav KLIMT – Klara Klimt – 1880
These early works by Klimt reveal his developmental process toward his later works. Although entirely different, his talent is clearly evident in these three pleasing portraits.
Gustav KLIMT – Pauline Flöge in Rococo Costume – 1892-1894
Gustav KLIMT – Seated Young Girl – 1894
Gustav KLIMT – Lady with Cape and Hat on a Red Background – 1897/98
Gustav KLIMT – Shubert at the Piano – 1896
Gustav KLIMT – Litzlbergkeller – 1915/16
Gustav KLIMT – Schönbrunn Landscape – 1916
Gustav KLIMT – Death and Life – 1910/11
DETAIL – I’LL TAKE LIFE WHILE I HAVE IT
KLIMT’S STUDIO – A faithful recreation using his personal furniture, fixture, and objects.
KLIMT’S KNICK-KNACKS
Erich MALLINA – Salome with the Head of John – 1905
PORTION OF A PORTRAIT OF ISABELLA REISSER – Anton Romako didn’t do this broad any favors. The poor thing looks crazier than a shithouse rat in this painting.
Josef Maria AUCHENTALLER – Elf at the Brook – 1898/99
Auguste RODIN – The Eternal Idol – Designed 1893 – Cast 1971
Koloman MOSER – Chair for the Purkersdof Sanatorium – 1903
Joseph Maria OLDBRICH – Chair – 1898/99
Josef HOFFMANN – Coffee Service – 1922
Otto PRUTSCHER – Wine Glasses – 1908
Joseph HOFFMANN – Vase in Wooden Framework – 1899
Josef HOFFMANN – Parts from a Drinking Suite – 1911
KOLOMAN MOSER
Koloman MOSER – Furniture from the Living Room of Eisler von Terramare – 1903
Koloman MOSER – Wardrobe from the Apartment of Eisler von Terramare – 1903
Koloman MOSER – High-Backed Easy Chair – 1904
BEDROOM SUITE
Otto WAGNER – Segment from the Railing of the Vienna City Railway – 1898
This is clearly derivative of a design often used in Ancient Rome nonetheless it is quite compelling. Similar railings can be found throughout Vienna.
Richard GERSTL – Small Landscape at Traunsee – 1907
EGON SCHIELE
Egon SCHIELE – Self Portrait with Lowered Head – 1912
Egon SCHIELE – Still Life with Books – 1916
Egon SCHIELE – House with Shingle Roof – 1915
Egon SCHIELE – Krumau at Night – 1911
Egon SCHIELE – Reclining Woman – 1917
Albert BIRKLE – Man with Fur Cap (My Brother the Animal) – 1923
John HOLLISTER – Man with Kangol Hat (Travel Zealot) – 2019
Franz HAGENAUER – Woman’s Head with Curls – 1934
Franz HAGENAUER – Hanukkah Lamp – Design 1935-38 – Execution c. 1970
Franz HAGENAUER – Female Head with Necklace – 1930
Rudolf WACKER – Achbrücke Bregenz – 1926
LOUIS VUITTON PHOTO SHOOT – I got this shot on the way out of the museum much to the displeasure of the crew. A typically emaciated, heroin chic, Vuitton model stares into oblivion in a somewhat nauseating outfit and overexposed LV print bag. How long will people continue to pay exorbitant prices for the privilege of advertising other peoples goods?
MuseumsQuartier
EINKAUFSPASSAGE – HIDDEN ALLEY – SPECIALTY STORES
www.startledermoden.at – High-Quality Calf Leather – Non-Designer Jackets at a third of the normal price. The one on the right is just 99 euros ($110).
CAFE CENTRAL
CAFÉ CENTRAL – Café Central is a traditional Viennese cafe that became a key meeting place of the Viennese intellectual scene. In January 1913 alone it played host to Sigmund Freud, Josef Stalin, Leon Trotsky, and Adolf Hitler. Today it is a popular tourist spot and café marked by its place in literary history.
PERUSING THE PASTRIES
I CHOSE DEATH BY GOULASH
GOULASH SOUP
GOULASH WITH DUMPLINGS
ERDBEERSCHNITTE – Sponge cake with vanilla cream, strawberries, and marzipan.
IMPERIAL PALACE
Josef MÜLLNER – Young Athlete – 1921
KLIMT PARAPHERNALIA – They have jam, chocolate, mints, tea, diaries, candles, coasters, ties, scarves, hats, gloves, tote bags, umbrellas, oven mitts, mugs, and ashtrays. I’ve even see kleenex with the Kiss printed on them so you can blow your nose on a masterpiece if you choose.
SAINT STEPHAN’S CHURCH
3RD MAN MUSEUM
THE PROPRIETOR AND HIS WIFE
HERBERT HALBIK – Little Hansel – The hat used in the film.
THE THIRD MAN – BEST BRITISH FILM OF ALL TIMES – British Film Institute – 1999
1ST. PRIZE CANNES FILM FESTIVAL 1949
This is a rare camera that was used in shooting The 3rd Man. It’s size made it possible to get footage that would have been unobtainable with a normal sized 35mm camera. The camera was previously used by Leni Riefenstahl in shooting the 1936 Berlin Olympics for Adolf Hitler.
CARE PACKAGES FOR A SUFFERING VIENNA
A COLLAGE OF VIENNA USING ACTUAL RUBBLE FROM THE WAR
THIS IS A RECREATED SCENE FROM THE FILM STAGED BELOW THE MUSEUM
BACK AT THE WOMBAT
DJ JAZZY DOUCHE – This pasty faced rapper wannabe attempted to impress the brother with his sorry grasp of the medium. It takes more than motherf##ker this and motherf##ker that to lay down a good track. The main issue is that it was three in the morning and I was trying to get some work done, and this yutz compromised my opportunity for some peace and quiet to do so.
BUNDESGARTEN SCHLOSSPARK SHÖNBRUNN
Surrounded by the ample grounds of the Shönbrunn Park the Gloriette can be seen perched on the hilltop.
NEPTUNE’S FOUNTAIN
THE GLORIETTE – On a hilltop overlooking the Schönbrunn Palace grounds and with beautiful views of Vienna from its roof, the Classical Gloriette was built in 1775.
SCHÖBRUNN PALACE – The Baroque Schönbrunn Palace with its 1,441 rooms and apartments was built between 1696 and 1730, and soon after converted into a residence for Maria Theresa, the only female Habsburg ruler. Further alterations took place between 1816 and 1819, and following severe damage in WWII, reconstruction was completed in 1952.
DESIGNATED A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE IN 1996
THE BLUE DANUBE – A WALK BY THE RIVER – Neither the boat nor the river is blue.
INTERNATIONAL DESIGN MARKET – About once a month this event is held just outside the MuseumQuartier.
The variety is only exceeded by the quality of the products.
RECYCLOCK – Made out of recycled bicycle part, these wall clocks mimic the inner workings of actual watch movements. If I had a home, I would have bought one of these innovative accessories.
A beautiful setting on an exceptional day.
ILLE/OLLA – This avant-garde outerwear is the brainchild of this woman. In fact, I saw one of her creations in a shop window in Prague.
LIGHT FIXTURES
RESIN JEWELRY – I picked up a 15 euro black resin ring for myself.
MUMOK MUSEUM – My 1st Destination
VERTIGO – MUMOK”S LATEST EXHIBITION OF MODERN ART
John HOLLISTER – SELF-PORTRAIT w/ POP ART – 2019
As you scroll through these pieces, notice how some of these artworks vibrate while in motion.
Bridget RILEY – Blaze 2 – 1963
Erika Giovanna KLIEN – Diving Bird – 1939
Bridget RILEY – Hesitate – 1964
François MORELLET – Four Double Grids – 1961
Victor VASARELY – Biadan – 1959
Victor Vasarely – Tabor-Cin – 1956
Edward WADSWORTH – Camoflaged Ship in Dry Dock – 1918
DADAMAINO – Optic-Dynamic-Object – 1961
Franco GRIGNANI – Structural Dance – 1965
Gotthart Joe MÜLLER – Structure – 1962
Victor VASARELY – ZEBRAS – 1932-1942
Richard ANUSZKIEWICZ – Convex and Concave – 1966
Edoardo LANDI – Visual Structure 61 – 1964-1965
Karl REINHARTZ – Prism Picture Black/White – 1963
Richard ANUSZKIEWICZ – Union of the Four – 1961
Carlos CRUZ-DIEZ – Phisichromie Nr. 417 – 1968
UMKREIS/Circle of Guido Reni – Prism Painting w/ Portraits of Jesus and Mary – 1st Half 17th Century
JESUS PERSPECTIVE
MARY PERSPECTIVE
François MORELLET – A Wire Mesh Superimposed – 1970
Marina APOLLONIO – Circular Dynamics 4S – 1968/2019
UNKNOWN ARTIST – Couple in the Act of Love – 1750
Gerhard VON GREEVENÜTZ – 37 Silver Disks on Black – 1967
Jesús RAFAEL SOTO – Metal Vibration – 1969-1970
Alberto BIASI – Big Leap into the Rainbow – 1969
Vjenceslav RICHTER – RELIEF-Meter – 1967
THE BIOPHYSICIST
TAXONOMIST
THE SOIL SCIENTIST
THE GEOPHYSICIST
THE GENETICIST
Kim MACCONNEL – Vodoo Couch, Table Lamp, and Painting – Edible -1946
John HOLLISTER – Pop Art Metro – 2019
After I left the museum, I ran into this little surprise. Pop Art meets Roman Ruins!
MAK MUSEUM
Gustav GURSCHNER – Lamp – 1905
Gustav KLIMT
Gustav KLIMT
Gustav KLIMT
Gustav KLIMT
CHINESE WHISPERS
Zhang XIAOGANG – Bloodline Series – 1997
CHI LEI – Red Star Motel – 2009
Ai WEIWEI – Descending Light with A Missing Circle – 2017
Cao YU – Fountain – 2015 (Single Channel HD Video)
2 Comments
Dicktor Van Doomcock
May 27, 2019Ah Vienna! Well, this was fascinating. I had no idea there was a vibrant street art scene in Vienna…I suppose I had always thought the streets would be clean and orderly, and none of those kinds of shenanigans would be tolerated. I’m glad to find my assumption was incorrect, as those images are pretty amazing. Born to be Wild?!? In Vienna?!? Wonders never cease! And WTF is that elaborate exhibition of The Third Man doing there? Why was that a thing I wonder? I’d be so stunned to find that there, a whole museum about it? Amazing…one does not associate Vienna with film in my mind. But I do find it fascinating.
As always, your photographs are stunning…I really loved the one plaza that I swear reminded me of Dorne, the lovely courtyard with the fountain and the figures in the middle? What a beautiful scene, as was the ceiling in that first cafe you went to, just breathtaking, the wood tones, the blue dome…stunning. AND it cracks me up you stole and image from their big photo shoot. HA! Well, after all, a cat can look at a king, yes?
I regret I have been too busy to properly follow your exploits, but I hope to correct this as I get a better grip on things. Hail John! Drop me a line please and let me know how you’re doing!
The Travel Zealot
May 28, 2019Hey DVD my friend, given your expertise regarding films throughout history, it is a shock that I have found such a notable one that has eluded you. What is even more shocking is that The Third Man is included in one of your favorite genres, the film noir. It was filmed in its entirety in Vienna. Not only that, it is considered the finest British Film of all time. Now I don’t feel so silly for letting Lawrence of Arabia slip through the cracks. I was aware of its existence but just hadn’t gotten around to seeing it given my antipathy toward desert environments.