PALESTINE: Bethlehem and Hebron

Posted by on Apr 7, 2018 in Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Upon approach to the checkpoint heading into Bethlehem is this foreboding sign. Of course for Palestinians trying to navigate their way around Israel the options run the gamut from annoying to impossible. Many people have to endure crushing daily routines of waking at 3:00 am to cross the border to work jobs to feed their families.

Once at the border they are herded like cattle into metallic, cramped paddocks. Just putting up with shitty, dead-end jobs back in the States can send people over the edge and shooting up their workplaces.

Given the injustices the Palestinians are faced with at every juncture of their lives, I can only say they have mostly shown great restraint and retain a surprisingly good nature in spite of it all. What follows will hopefully enlighten, and inform upon a subject that has likely been obscured from view for most of your lives.

It is my belief that as long as this injustice persists, it will prove almost impossible for Israelis to fully enjoy their newfound homeland. I say this not because of potential Palestinian recriminations, but merely the action of their own consciences or simply karmic retribution.

How can the Jewish people, who have been slaughtered and abused, base their freedom and comfort on the detriment and suffering of another equally vulnerable population? Surely their own goodness will subconsciously sabotage any long term happiness that is derived from acts that contradict their religion, as well as the basic tenets of human decency.

THIS ROAD LEADS TO AREA “A” – UNDER THE PALESTINIAN AUTHORITY THE ENTRANCE FOR ISRAELI CITIZENS IS FORBIDDEN AND DANGEROUS TO YOUR LIVES AND IS AGAINST ISRAELI LAW.

The irony here is that if more Israelis were exposed to the plight of these people, things might actually change. Unfortunately, these apartheid walls serve to insulate them from the truth and sweep under the rug the injustice that their government perpetrates upon the Palestinians.

CASE – A nicely executed piece of a Palestinian girl.

BANKSY – This is an iconic Banksy work that has been around for a decade. Recreated in many souvenir shops, this piece has found its way into many households worldwide, given Banksy’s generosity of spirit. People all over Bethlehem are selling many types of reproductions of his works without fear of being sued over copyright issues. He is happy for them to improve their lives through his artwork. The other good news is that the products and the images are of high quality.

BANKSY – Dove with Olive Branch and Bullet Proof Vest

TRUMP 666 – NO BALLS?  #BUILD WALLS

THE SEPARATION WALL – TWICE THE HEIGHT OF THE FORMER BERLIN WALL

TRUMPTY-DUMPTY LOVES WALLS

 

BANKSY LAST PIECE IN BETHLEHEM

 

DID YOU LEARN NOTHING FROM THE WARSAW GHETTO?

DARTH VADAR DWARFED BY THIS EVIL WALL

WANKER-IN-CHIEF

Er…SORRY

Such sweet kids living in a refugee camp near Bethlehem City.

CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY – The holiest place in Christendom.

BELLTOWER

 

THE FAITHFUL

LINING UP TO VISIT THE BIRTHPLACE OF JESUS

THE ENTRANCE INTO THE HOLIEST OF HOLIES

BENDING DOWN AT THE SPOT WHERE CHRIST WAS BORN

THIS STAR MARKS THE SPOT WHERE JESUS CHRIST WAS BORN

THIS IS THE AREA WHERE THE CRADLE WAS PLACED

 

 

Beneath this wooden floor is the original mosaic floor. Here you see a Jerusalem cross in the foreground. The raised floor was added so the faithful would not walk on the crosses below.

Low door to make sure people bow as they enter the church.

 

 

 

BETHLEHEM SQUARE

EASTER DECORATIONS

FAMOUS PALESTINIAN UPSIDE DOWN DISH

A VERY TASTY AUTHENTIC MEAL OF CHICKEN AND RICE

THE WALLED OFF HOTEL – BANKSY’S ACCOMMODATING CONCEPTUAL ART PIECE

Designed to resemble an old British Gentlemen’s Club.

AMANDA BALLOUT – Super nice young lady who is a fine Palestinian ambassador, and a perfect welcome to the Walled Off Hotel. She will go far in the hospitality industry or any vocation she chooses.

THE FAMED WALLED-OFF PIANO LOUNGE – Sit and here pre-recorded piano concerts from the likes of Tom Waits and other notables. The bookshelf on the left is the entrance to the guest rooms. There is a small, white nude statue on the shelf to right. You wave your wall section key holder in front of the boobs, and they light up indicating that the bookshelf door is unlocked.

VARIOUS INSECURITY CAMERAS

MORE WALLS

GENTLEMEN’S CLUB CHIC – NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH TITTY BARS IN THE STATES

A WONDERFUL BANKSY RECREATION OF HIS OWN WORK

NEO CLASSICAL TEAR GAS

AND THE BANKSYS KEEP COMING

 

“We travel not to escape life – but for life not to escape us”

THE BUNKHOUSE

MILITARY CHIC

PRONE TO DRONES

MY PRIZED BOTTOM BUNK

MY GOODNESS MY GUINNESS – BATHROOM TOUCHES

TASTEFUL FRAMED ART ENSEMBLE

ANOTHER BANKSY CLASSIC – THE BUTTONS AND INDICATOR LIGHTS WERE GOING HAYWIRE – SO PLAYFUL

MARWAN – My personal tour guide who shared his personal experiences as well as the crimes against the Palestinian people. His impassioned plea to the world at large was not lost upon me.

What you see on the left is a gate in the wall. Needless to say, the population can pose little threat to this monolithic wall. When they finally are fed up with this apartheid oppression, they have been known to demonstrate. The Israeli soldiers take this opportunity to test out all the neat stuff the government buys from War-Mart in the USA. The giant gate slides open, tear gas canisters soar, rubber bullets fly, and if they’re feeling particularly full of themselves, they let loose some live rounds.

Check out the appendage above Marwan on the wall.

This benign looking arm dispenses all manner of chemicals, sewage, and other unpleasantries to disperse the crowd before unleashing their inhospitable armaments upon the people, women and children included.

PALESTINIAN CEMETERY PARTIALLY ENCIRCLED BY THE WALL

Many of Marwan’s relatives are buried here. The Israeli soldiers show their respects by tossing their empty food containers and trash into the sacred space.

As a special dispensation, the soldiers have filled this two-liter bottle with their own urine and flung it down amongst the headstones below. This was removed by a tourist earlier in the week, but it is a favorite practice nonetheless.

A GUARD TOWER PRESIDES OVER THE PALESTINIAN DEAD

WORLD’S HEAVIEST KEY – The significance of this monument is that many Palestinians have been kicked out of their houses and off of their land. They keep the key as a symbol that one day they will return. The Palestinians submitted their giant key to the Guinness Book of World Records only to be turned down on the grounds that it was too political. God dammit, these people cannot catch a break. C’mon Guinness, throw these people a frickin’ bone!

Right near the giant key this kid was minding his own business and was shot and killed by an Israeli sniper.

ISRAELI MASSACRE 2014 – This is a list of children that were killed in the massacre. They ran out of space. Around 600 kids lost their lives.

These are all of the confiscated towns. Gee, I wonder why these people are pissed off?

MURAL – This piece was commissioned by a Mexican group to honor Marwan and the Palestinians.

MUNITIONS – Assorted tear gas launchers, tear gas grenades, and rubber bullets.

MADE IN THE USA – Our “War for Profit Industry” is complicit in the victimization of the Palestinians. This is something I am really  appalled about. Even rubber bullets kill when fired at a close range which is often the case in this neighborhood.

This used to be a street that had thriving businesses alongside, but those days are over since the wall cut off its lifeblood, and prevented the flow of commerce.

WALL-MART – This is where wall art begins.

WANDA & YAZAM have a cigarette outside of Wall-Mart which is an adjunct of the hotel. They help guests to create stencils so they can add to the other art on the Insecurity Wall. Here you see them having just finished my stencil.

IMAGINE – I thought the title of John Lennon’s greatest solo song and peace anthem would send the right message.

LUSH – This Australian street artist is fond of Rick & Morty.

MORE TRUMP

LUSH

ZUCKERBERG ZUCKS

LUSH – LOOK MORTY, I TURNED MYSELF INTO AN ILLEGAL BORDER WALL!

MAKE HUMMUS NOT WALLS

My bunkhouse roommate created this.

Here’s another bunkhouse roommate with his creation. He is French and we love the same cheeses.

Muhammad Ali on left.

BANKSY – Girl Frisking Soldier – This famous work is hidden in a souvenir shop that is rarely open. I took this shot through a painted glass door which had a little of the paint scratched off. Evidently the owner of the shop is a bit of a prick which is a shame since he is holding this iconic Banksy hostage.

MUSEUM IN THE HOTEL

MUSEUM SHOP – Loren Odeh & Hanan Araj – Two more fine examples of Palestinian hospitality, kindness, and decency. There are many insightful books about the Israeli/Palestinian conflict available for purchase. There are also a few special Banksy products as well. I purchased an “original” Banksy Wall Section keychain! Yes, you too can purchase affordable original Banksy works here.

MUSEUM EXHIBITS

INSTRUMENTS OF OPPRESSION

WAR FOR PROFIT – THIS SPEAKS FOR ITSELF

MORE EXHIBITS

I CAN’T BELIEVE WE’RE STILL PROTESTING THIS SHIT!

AIN’T IT THE TRUTH

 

 

                        WALLED OFF ART GALLERY

PIECES AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE BY LOCAL ARTISTS

Quality artwork at good prices.

This is an upsetting ensemble. Do you recognize the Abu Ghraib torture silhouette on the top piece of currency.

Let’s end this on a positive note. The strange thing about my visit is that regardless of its painful aspects, I came away a feeling of solidarity with these people. I knew that I had participated in something of value and meaning. It is one of my many adventures that I will never forget, and that the people of the Walled-Off Hotel can be assured that their kindness will translate into their message being carried past the walls and throughout the world.

 

 

 

                        HEBRON TOUR

CROSSING CHECKPOINT INTO PALESTINIAN CONTROLLED HEBRON

YASSIR ARAFAT

This man has had his shop here for fifty years. His father and his grandfather also worked here. Because of restrictions business has been adversely affected.

Add to that the problems with the settlements built above them and you have a perfect storm. The wire mesh you see is to prevent trash from littering the area in front of their shops. Unfortunately, it doesn’t protect against the urine or bleach that is occasionally poured on top of them.

The effects of division have not been good as you can see.

Knock off Nikes

Fruit Market

Downtown Hebron

One of the many gold shops.

Cheap Clothes

Shuttered Shops

Heading to the Ibrahimi Mosque.

This mosque is part of the Tomb of the Patriarchs which is shared with the Jews.

In this spot, 29 Palestinians were murdered by a US-born, Israeli, military physician on February 25, 1994. Armed with a Galil assault rifle, Baruch Goldstein managed to injure more than a hundred worshippers before he was overpowered and beaten to death.

 

 

 

BURIAL CHAMBER

For you, Star Wars fans, does this look familiar?

Hebron is yet another reminder of how intertwined this culture is, and how truly untenable maintaining these physical boundaries really is. It is damaging psychologically, financially, politically, and ultimately prevents any meaningful dialogue or progress on any kind of path to peace. What’s needed here is anybody’s guess.

Imagine there’s no heaven
It’s easy if you try
No hell below us
Above us only sky
Imagine all the people
Living for today… Aha-ah…

Imagine there’s no countries
It isn’t hard to do
Nothing to kill or die for
And no religion, too
Imagine all the people
Living life in peace… You…

You may say I’m a dreamer
But I’m not the only one
I hope someday you’ll join us
And the world will be as one

Imagine no possessions
I wonder if you can
No need for greed or hunger
A brotherhood of man
Imagine all the people
Sharing all the world… You…

You may say I’m a dreamer
But I’m not the only one
I hope someday you’ll join us
And the world will live as one

 

A reassuring footnote comes on the heels of my visit to Israel. Natalie Portman, a notable actress and Harvard graduate, was denounced by the Israeli Government over her decision not to attend the Genesis Prize Foundation awards ceremony where she was due to collect the Genesis Prize as Israel wrapped up its 70th. Independence Day celebrations. Born in Israel, Portman’s actions are being deemed nothing short of “treason” and the actions of an elitist against her fellow countrymen.

After decades of egregious human rights violations against Palestinians, it is clear that even well-known Israeli-American cultural figures, like Natalie Portman, are no longer willing to whitewash or turn a blind eye to Israeli crimes and apartheid policies.

Israel’s recent massacre of peaceful protesters by Israeli Defense Forces in Gaza makes its condemnation of Portman seem nothing short of tone deaf at best. How can Israelis celebrate their Independence after surviving a Holocaust, while perpetrating crimes that smack of the very abuses they once suffered?

 

2 Comments

  1. Dicktor Van Doomcock
    April 17, 2018

    My dear Travel Zealot,

    This is a heartbreaking post. Yeah…I don’t think I could stomach going to Israel, not after seeing first hand through your lens the naked ugliness of this oppression. I consider myself a pro-Semite, given my love of Jewish culture and particularly the Jewish contribution of American humor, an incalculably vast contribution…but this turns my stomach. That shot of those lovely innocent children you had in the middle of your post…the thought of them living that kind of life, segregated, made to feel less than they are…it makes me sick and angry.

    If there was one heartening thing I took away from this post, it was your excellent documentation of the thriving Palestinian artist response to this oppression. Their art is vigorous, their voices not silenced. I’m glad to see that their spirit has not been crushed.

    Wonderful pictures Travel Zealot. Well presented. Thank you for giving us all a glimpse into this disgraceful reality.

    – – Doomcock

  2. The Travel Zealot
    April 17, 2018

    Exalted Doomcock,
    Being surrounded by my hosts in the hotel, as well as my fellow travelers, was a strangely uplifting experience even in light of the tragedy and oppression. Gaining an understanding of something missed by a large swath of the world, gives comfort to these people with the hope that stories of their plight will be carried past their walls and out into the world. It is clear that Banksy had this in mind when he created the Walled Off Hotel.

    It also provides jobs for a number of Palestinians who in turn become ambassadors for their countrymen in every interaction with their guests. I made a point of telling the hotel employees how important they were beyond the mere functions of the work they performed. Each and every one of them put a human face on the daily struggle of the Palestinians, and let everyone know that many good people are being oppressed through no fault of their own.

    The good news is that there were many Jews on the Hebron tour who are very upset with the treatment of the Palestinians, and who are tying to do something about it. Unfortunately it is a daunting task with no tangible solution in sight.
    TZ

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